Journal Entries

I kept a journal and wrote in it most nights on the trail. It was all written in longhand and transcribed by my good friend Jonathan Marrs who valiantly tried to decipher my poor handwriting and atrocious spelling. Needless to say there are significant grammatical and spelling errors in the text below, so be warned.

April 5, 2004

(Day -26; Miles Left 2,658.7;Claremont, CA)

I have been planning this Walk for over a year and I have been anxious to be on the way for almost a year. It is finally within sight! May first is my tentative start date. I’m glad for the pressure of getting things planed and also moving all of my stuff, it is a good break from the monotony and helps to keep me motivated these last few weeks.

A part of me feels unprepared for this. How can I expect to walk 2,600 miles? How does one even begin to plan such a thing? Sure you read the books and guides, check out the experience of those who have gone before, but ultimately it is something that cannot be prepared for. The doing is the preparation. Of course, I have taken the standard precautions and steps to get my mind and body ready, but there is only so much one can do. Ultimately I don’t think I would want it any other way. I can see the temptation when undertaking something like this to over-prepare. To know every night where I’m going to sleep, figure out down to the calorie what food I’m going to eat, etc. There comes a point where the power of the unknown is emasculated; If all risk is taken out this would not be a worth challenge. It’s a fine balance, in the Boy Scouts I was taught the maxim “Be prepared”, and there is a truth to that, but likewise there is a truth to setting out into the unknown. I guess I lie somewhere in-between, in a sort of unhappy medium; prepared for the unknown and recognizing the potential dangers but also always acknowledging the unpredictable nature of nature. The part of me that feels unprepared will never leave and I don’t think I want it to.

April 14, 2004

(Day –17; Miles Left 2,658.7;Claremont, CA)

Only four more days of work at Commerce Casino, and none too soon. After that less than two weeks to move out of my apartment in Claremont, haul my stuff up to Olympia, Washington, drop it off at my parents house, prepare my supply boxes, and then actually start my walk on May 1. I’m already having dreams about starting my walk and not having any food or wearing any clothing or being generally not ready. The nightmares help me to keep plugging away at the few remaining things I need to do.

I’m hiking the PCT solo. A major reason why is that the few people that I would like to join cannot because of marriage and other things. But this is more of an excuse of convenience, because I never sought out a partner for The Walk; it has always been me doing this alone. My senior year in college at Azusa Pacific University (APU) I went through a wilderness leadership-training course for becoming a resident advisor called Walkabout. A part of that course was a two-day solo. I look back on that time as some of the most significant in my life. There is a tradition, and a mythical quality about going out into the Wild alone. Native Americans went on Sprit Quests, other groups have coming of age rites that involve entering the Wild. In my own tradition, there are numerous examples; Moses lived in the desert and had to experience the theophany of the burning bush before he could lead; John the Baptizer in the tradition of prophets before him spoke out of the desert; Jesus Himself spent 40 days on a spiritual quest in the desert, not mentioning the various time he snuck away from his followers to be alone; The tradition continued with the desert fathers and mothers and the list goes on and on. I need to do this alone.

April 20, 2004

(Day –11; Miles Left 2,658.7;Claremont, CA)

This will be my last chance to write an entry on my own computer; from now on, my best friend Jonathan Marrs will be updating the site from letters and phone calls. Only two more nights in this apartment, and a week and a half until I’m on the trail. Finally. I have been done with work since Saturday and have my place pretty much packed up. It’s incomprehensible how much stuff we as Americans accumulate. I have always thought of myself as living relatively simply. Not a lot of stuff that I don’t need. I have made a continuous effort to scrutinize every thing I put into a box; do I really need this? When was the last time I used it? I have already filled up a dumpster and have made several runs to goodwill with a full pickup. What is this obsession we have with surrounding ourselves with things? This journey through the woods will be a welcome repose from the clutter of life and it will give me a further chance to evaluate my motivations and myself.

A friend lent me a book two days ago A Walk in the Woods by Bill Bryson and I gulped it up finishing this morning. A wonderfully and hilarious book, that is also timely. Bryson hiked the Appalachian Trail, sort of the mother of long-distance trails in the US. I really cannot do justice to the book, so just go out and read it if you are so inclined. Wow, only a few more days and still so much to do. Until next time.

May 1, 2004 – 8:00 pm – “Lake Morena”

20.0 miles today (and total)

I hate hiking. I hate the PCT. I hate myself for ever wanting to do this. I hate how I ran out of water way too early in the day and how completely exhausted I am right now. But I knew this was going to happen. The first days are the hardest. And no matter how much I want to quit right now, I will not. 20 miles down, only a few more thousand to go. The human mind and body are amazing (and mine are amazingly sore). Time to sleep. Tomorrow is coming sooner than I realize.

May 2, 2004 – 6:50 pm – “Cibbets Flat Campground”

12.6 miles – 32.8 total

My feet are killing me today… I am hot and sore beyond anything I have ever felt. I had to take it a little slow today and I did not get as far as I wanted. I will try for more tomorrow. I will be able to get to Mt. Laguna tomorrow to do my first re-supply and I plan to hike a few more miles out of town. Hoping to get to an earlier start tomorrow morning. We will see, I am still dead tired. No more energy to write.

May 5, 2004 – 3:00 pm – “San Felipe Creek”

78.1 miles total

Man, this section sucks. Just desert and hot hills. I’ve been hiking until around noon, then I found some shade and I am relaxing until it cools down around 5. I am hoping to get a few more miles done today. This is the longest I have ever backpacked continuously (mileage-wise). It seems like such a long ways, but it is not even a dent. I finally met up with some other through-hikers at Lake Morena, then a bunch hanging out at Mt. Laguna general store. It’s good to know that there are others in the same boat. Solidarity of the long distance hikers.

My body is still unbelievably tired and sore. My feet especially. Luckily no blisters, but they hurt almost every step I take. I think they are toughening up. The little water there is, is far between – forcing me to do long days and nights, sometimes long detours. I have been too tired – or in pain – to think about much other than placing one foot in front of the other, and how I want to quit this stupid trip and find someplace comfortable to be. My body is weak but my mind and will is weaker than I give myself credit for. I always thought that my only limitation would be my body – that I would only quit if I got a broken leg or something like that – but my spirit is wavering. I use every ounce of will power to place my feet forward, then I ask myself “why?” and “why not just quit?” I usually feel better when I’m not walking, especially if I am in the shade… I’m still here and I’m going to do this.

I only have a few more days until the next re-supply town, Warner Springs, and if a room is available, I think I might stay a day or two to recuperate. Hopefully by then my body and will-power will have caught up with whatever is keeping me going right now.

May 6, 2004 – 7:25 pm – “Barrel Spring”

101.9 miles

Only about 9 miles tomorrow morning until Warner Springs where I have a re-supply and hopefully a room I can relax in for a day. 100 miles! Wow, that is quite a bit longer than any distance I’ve walked before. But still barely a drop out of 2,600. I felt pretty good today; my feet are tired and my legs are stiff, but while I was walking I felt good. The bugs are really bothering me, so I’m going to get in my tent and go to bed.

May 7, 2004 – 8:20 pm – “Warner Springs Ranch”

110.6 miles

I got into town early this afternoon and got a room at the resort, took a shower and washed all my nice tan off. Then I slept for a few hours. This is not really a town, just a huge resort with a golf course and hot springs and such. It feels good to relax and re-supply for the next leg. I’m planning on leaving tomorrow after a big lunch.

May 8, 2004 – “South of Chihuahua Valley”

122 miles

I took it easy today and only did about 11 miles out of Warner Springs. I had a good rest and a good meal and then I was ready to go.

Out here you live by the natural rhythm of nature. Waking up an hour past first light in the morning feels like I’m sleeping in. The “normal” world would consider that the “butt crack of dawn.” It gets cold fast after the sun sets, even if it’s been blazing hot the entire day. There is no insulation. We normally live insulated lives, protecting us from the early morning sun and the cool of the evening. Living at a steady 70° F. Not too much more, not too much less. I can’t talk too much because I like it. I like it when I come inside on a hot day to an A/C cooled room, but I guess that I just have forgotten that it is not normal. We make it that way because the normal world is not comfortable. It’s dirty… Well the light is fading, the temperature is dropping and I’m going to sleep in the normal world… but of course with a sleeping bag and ground cloth to keep out the un-comfort.

May 9, 2004 – “Nance Canyon”

141.7 miles

I feel pretty good today despite the large mileage. The distance between water sources is getting to be a dreaded part of each day. The frustrating part is that it does not have to be this way. All throughout the guide book, the author points out greener and more watered mountains and routes… Then he mentions that we are in this hot, waterless part because of land use issues with a private landowner or that the forest service didn’t want to deal with anticipated problems. That sucks to know that the reason this section of the PCT is so ugly and dangerous is because land owners didn’t want a trail through their range land, or whatever other reason. There are some greatly appreciated people that help the situation. A couple groups place water caches at key points on the route to lessen the burden of having to carry 20 plus miles of water. If there were not these kind souls, I would be in a lot worse shape.

May 10, 2004 – “Live Oak Spring”

I started to fade near the end of today; the last 3 miles just dragged on and on. It didn’t help that the last mile down to Live Oak Springs is a detour that I’m going to go back up in the morning. Oh well, what can I do? At least it’s a nice place to camp.

Back to where I left off yesterday… Maybe it’s not so much a problem with the land owners but with developers—people who want to make a buck by expanding the suburban sprawl. It’s pushing the wilderness and other natural areas into a narrow corridor, one surrounded by mini-malls and housing developments. I’m not sure what can be done, because we don’t need Uncle Sam telling us what not to do any more than he is now. Possibly, if people truly understood the value of the wilderness and protected areas they would act differently. Nope… Even after writing that, I know it’s not going to happen. The supremacy of the buck trumps all. We live and die by money. All life in between is in pursuit of it and the power it brings. Does a capitalistic and free market society have to spawn consumerism?

I don’t know.

There was a memorial on the trail today commemorating a trail worker who died at the spot. I wonder how much blood it cost to build this trail. How much dynamite and man-hours were used? The cost must have been enormous. I remember hearing once that statistically “Y” number of people will die building a bridge of “X” length. It makes you think about how much of the infrastructure we utilize day in and day out may cost somebody their life. A sobering thought.

May 11, 2004 – “Near South Fork Tahquitz Creek”

176.8 miles

What a brutal day. I wanted to get to Idyllwild tonight but I stopped about five miles short. The climb today was long, steep, and continuous. I’m finally at some decent elevation (around 8,000’) and there are some lingering snow patches; I used one to get water for dinner. This feels like the PCT. Trees and mountains, huge rocks and the like, no more of this sand, cacti, and stuff… well at least until the Mojave. Only a few miles to do in the morning, then I can relax for a few days. Good night.

May 14, 2004 – “Fuller Ridge Trailhead”

192.2 miles

I had a very relaxing zero mileage day in Idyllwild. I ate some good food, got some needed supplies, and now I am back on the trail with a few miles expected for today and a full week of walking planned. The one thing that I have really missed has been reading material. I found myself stopping to read every stupid sign, even if I already knew what it said. So I ended up getting a book in Idyllwild—Thoreau’s Walden. Somehow it has slipped by me in the past, but now I think it is particularly appropriate.

May 16, 2004 – “Mission Creek”

232 miles

I spent last night at the “Pink Motel.” It’s not a motel and only part of it is pink. Nevertheless, it was quite an experience. It was this stucco building with several trailers joined together. All in the middle of this junk yard full of cars on blocks, boats, and various other metal debris. In the motel itself there was a propane stove and fridge, a bunch of “hiker” food (like spaghetti and rice), and a sleeping area full of a bunch of couches. It’s a rather strange place, yet very appreciated. Just before the Pink Motel, I went to the lowest elevation on the trail south of the Columbia Gorge. Basically, it’s all uphill from here to the OR/WA border.

There was a lot of activity last night and this morning. Rumors of a fire on the trail north of San Gregornio Pass were spreading. Helicopters were doing routes overhead and various fire crews roamed around. Anyway, it turns out that a through hiker started a brush fire a few days ago and they only just now got is contained. I also found out that the trail is closed 6 miles into the day’s walk. I’m still not sure what that means because they just told me to be careful and let me on my way. The trail was badly burnt for several miles, but the it looks like the fire turned away from the PCT. There were several large crews doing trail clean up, and that is probably why it was closed. Fear of newly loosed rocks and such. Pretty exciting start to my day. I could see how easily a fire could spread in this area because it is very dry. Also the wind is so strong and consistent that there is a wind farm built here. It is the same one I have seen going on the I-10 East toward Palm Springs.

May 17, 2004 – “Coon Creek Jumpoff”

248.1 miles

I’m high in the San Bernardino Mountains (just two days away from Big Bear Lake where I will re-supply). In a few days I’ll be entering into the area that was burned by last summer’s massive fires. It will be interesting to see how they have changed the area around Deep Creek and Lake Silverwood (both places I know from my childhood). My Achilles tendon is bothering me again. I hope it does not give me too much trouble. I’m unordinarily tired today so I’m off to sleep.

May 18, 2004 – “Double Trail Camp”

269.9 miles

Put a full day in today… Not much elevation gain or loss, so I’m feeling pretty good. Tomorrow is a re-supply day in Big Bear and I think I will hit the trail once I have my errands done. I’m looking forward to my nest stop at the Marrs’ place in Glendora. I miss them and being able to see familiar faces… and just hanging out with friends. I’m a bit trail lonesome. Only a few more days…

I walked past the dump for the communities up here in the San Bernardino’s. Strangely enough, it brought back some memorable times spent there. We had great fun at the dump rummaging through others’ discarded treasures. There was a building called “Another Man’s Treasure” that was full of great stuff. Fun times at the dump.

I have been reading along with Thoreau, Lao Tzu’s The Way of Life (or Tao Te Ching). It is an ancient Chinese text on Eastern mysticism. It is Eastern mysticism, or Taoism. In the introduction the translator makes some interesting points; one being that the major tenets of mystical thought were discovered by different isolated groups separated by time and space. That’s intriguing that people looking for basically the same thing would come up with the same answer. Whether it is Taoism, Christian mystics from the Middle Ages, India’s Brahmin, etc. Not proof, but a strong indicator that there is a profound Truth to be learned from the mystics the world over.

May 19, 2004 – “Caribou Creek”

276.3 miles

I got into Big Bear this afternoon: got a shower at the fire station, some food at a restaurant, and re-supplied at the market. I hiked back up to the trail and will start again reasonably refreshed.

The trail brings conflicting emotions—there is solitude, but only relatively because rarely does a day go by where I don’t see another person. But solitude is always relative, it is a result of an inner silence more than an outer reality. The trail really leaves you isolated. Sure you see a few other people, but they are just “bodies passing in the rye,” not people involved in your life. There is limited contact in towns by phone, but other than that, I’m isolated out in the woods. It is a strange thing to experience.

May 20, 2004 – “Burnt Bridge Spanning Deep Creek”

299.8 miles

The second half of my day was walking through a recently burned area. In a few places, the entire hillsides were stripped of all plants… just black tree trunks standing sentinel over an ash covered landscape. Apparently the fire burned the bridge, which caused it to collapse at one end. It once spanned 90 feet over the creek that thankfully does not live up to its name.

I miss people that understand me— people who have enough shared experience that there is a basis, a foundation for continued experiences. I don’t have anybody to share all that is going on—on a deep level—because the only people I see are fellow hikers. And there is just not enough time to build a foundation for a deep relationship and conversation.

…I’m not really making any sense.

May 21, 2004 – “Silverwood Lake”

328 miles

Man, 28 miles today. I just kept on walking. So tired… want to sleepy.

May 22, 2004 – “Between I-5 in Cajon Pass and Swarthout Canyon

348.6 miles

I slept in today, so I did not get quite as far as I wanted to. I am still making good time (nearly one and a half days ahead of schedule for arriving in Glendora). I have a big climb tomorrow into the San Gabriel Mountains above the Los Angeles basin. I can already see the smog seeping in through Cajon Pass. The brown pawl of L.A. My brain is just as tired as my body… both are in need of rest.

May 23, 2004 – “Guff Camp/Spring”

366.8 miles

A big climb today. Back up over 8000’. A little slow today, but still a day ahead of schedule. The songbirds have been out in force this last week; all types of little birds each touting a unique song. I started today with low overhead clouds and fog that persisted until I got up and over the top of them. It’s always a shocking and beautiful sight to come up out of a damp cloud bank into the bright sun shining down on a sea of white—an island in a cloud ocean.

May 24, 2004 – “Some where on Highway 39”

Wow, what a day! I did the normal hiking and got to the top of Mt. Baiden-Powel. Then as planned, I took the trail down from Windy Gap to Crystal Lake where I was to call Jonathan for a ride down to Glendora. It all started at Windy Gap where there was a sign stating that the Crystal Lake area was closed. No problem, if needs be, I will bum a ride down the hill. The trail was badly burned in last summers fires, so it was in really bad shape—huge washed out gullies, blown downs, brush, and unclear tread. I finally made it down to the campground after only a few mishaps. The Crystal Lake recreation center is huge—a few campgrounds, tons of trails, and dirt roads. The whole place is empty because of the closure, so I wandered around until I found a pay phone… no signal, nobody around. To the highway then.

After a 3 mile walk to Highway 39, I start down the hill. At this point I still had not seen a single car. The only reason people go this far up the highway is for Crystal Lake. I gave up on the chance of calling Jonathan after seeing an emergency call box without a phone in it. I pitched my tent on a flat area by the road. As I was eating my last bit of food I saw the first and only car of the day pass by. It was too late and dark for me to get their attention though.

Hopefully something will come my way tomorrow. But I have a feeling that I am going to have a very long walk.

May 28, 2004 – “Cooper Canyon Creek”

398.2 miles

…back on the trail today after a few days of rest at the Marrs’ in Glendora. I made it down there (walking most of the way, but finally finding a ride for the last few miles. It was a long walk . I had a great time in Glendora—got rested and cleaned up, re-fitted my equipment, and was able to hang out with some friends. My old roommate Kaj was getting married yesterday, and I thought that I was going to miss it but I got off the trail just in time. It was good to see him again. Thank you all who have emailed m, I didn’t have a chance to reply to all of them but I will try when I have email access and more time.

It’s good to be back on the trail, but hiking away from Jonathan this time was a lot harder.

The Walk, my hiking day in and day out is not an end in itself. I do not particularly enjoy walking, but as a means to some other end is why I do it. I am passionate about the journey, the adventure, having everything I need to live on my back, and living in the woods and mountains of the West. With each step I take, I am exploring the streams of thought in the dark forests of who I am.

May 29, 2004 – “Mill Creak Summit”

419.2 miles

I got a full day in today, and my newly rested body let me know it does not like hard work. It would much rather lay around and sleep. A few more days and I will have brother ass whipped into shape.

My lay over allowed me to meet a whole new group of hikers. The ones that I saw frequently are now a few days ahead. Being Memorial Day weekend, the trail and trailheads were very busy. There is a lot of traffic on the roads and trails. I’ll be glad when it settles down.

I enjoy using my body for locomotion. There is something to be said for getting around by one’s own power. Even on a bike you are using mechanical advantage, but it’s still you who is powering it. We lose the sense of distance the less we use our own power to move over the land. The car was a great invention, but it can lead us to forget that 20 miles is a long distance for a day. We live in a huge country shrunk down by the internal combustion engine and the jet airliner.

June 1, 2004 – “Mattox Canyon Creek”

440.8 miles

I am almost finished with the San Gabriel Mountains, just a few more miles. The people that I have seen these last few days seem to be hiking at a similar pace as me. I think it will be good to be able to get to know some fellow through hikers better.

What am I going to do when I am done with this walk? It is a question that has haunted me for quite a while now; even from before the time I started. So many options, an infinite number of paths I could follow. Now just pick one! (or two, or five…)

June 2, 2004 – “Agua Dulce”

454.9 miles

I am here at Hiker Heaven by the Sauflies. This is really a wonderful place. No words can really describe it; it needs to be experienced to be understood. There are a bunch of people here. It has been good to hear their stories and experiences from the trail. I’m going to do a little shopping tomorrow and more eating, then I will head back to the trail early the following day. The weather report for the next section is hot (around 105 degrees), so out of necessity I will hike very early morning to early afternoon, nap, then hike again once it cools down until as late as I can. I’m not looking forward to the early morning starts. I am definitely not a morning person. Once I am up, it is good but it is the getting up that is the hard part for me.

June 3, 2004 – “Agua Dulce”

454.9 miles

I had a nice relaxing day today, just went shopping for next section and to mail ahead to a place in the Sierras. I’m taking off either tomorrow night or the morning after. On to the desert, then the real mountains, the Sierra Nevadas.

My understanding of the trail and my walk changes every day. It is an amazingly fuild things. Probably just projection of my own changes and shifts in understanding. What is thi life? It is were just his trail, I would be satisfied, and would still have more than enough for a thousand lifetimes. But it is more, so much more than I can evern name, let alone experience in a thousand lifetimes. Overwhelming and promising thoughts… An infinite possibility to make myself. I feel stuck in infinite indecision.

June 5, 2004 – “San Francisquito Canyon”

477.6 miles

I left Hiker Heaven at Agua Dulce last night and id about ten miles of cool night hiking. I got up as early as possible today and put in 12 miles before it got too hot and I have just been napping and resting in the shade waiting for the temperature to cool down so I can get some night hiking in. The thermometer on my backpack reads a little over 110 degrees Fahrenheit in the sun; that is just a bit too hot for me to be slugging a backpack around in.

I don’t particularly like night hiking. It is a strange thing to do—perception of distance changes and you are boxed into a circle of artificial light. Then there is that deep primordial fear of the dark coming out of the Id, the collective subconscious. Only those with false pride or profound self-ignorance have never felt the quickening of ones heart as a something mysterious sounds in the dark or the uneasy panic and claustrophobic pressure of complete darkness. I can rationalize all I want in order to explain the noise as some natural nocturnal sojourner, but there is that feeling of unwelcomeness and subdued hostility that I feel being alone in the wild night. Yet I still do it and will continue to do it. I think I kind of like it.

June 6, 2004 – “A sad pond on the San Andrea’s Fault”

509.0 miles

The second part of my day was a walk along beautifully open groves of oaks along the Liebre Mountains. The wind has been blowing and along with the shade, it has made for a nice and cool day. Tomorrow I come out of the mountains and cross of the Mojave Desert proper (following the Los Angeles Aqueduct). I am definitely going to be night hiking for the next few days. It is nice and flat though, so that will make it quite a bit easier. The reason that the PCT takes such a sudden turn out of the mountains is because directly in the intended path is the mammoth Tejon Ranch. The refuse to give the PCT right-of-way through their land, so on to the aqueduct!

June 8, 2004 – “Mojave”

555.1 miles

Got into Mojave this evening and got a room at White’s Motel. Tomorrow I am doing the usual re-supply stuff, then back to the trail in the late afternoon/evening. I have been hiking with a group for a few days now—Dave “Cotton-Mouth,” Toek, Christy, and Gail. They are a good bunch and it seems we all pretty much have the same mileage each day.

Almost out of Southern California and into the Sierras. I am excited because for the most part I know the lay of the land and have even been on sections of the PCT down here. It is my stomping ground… But now heading out of So. Cal, I am entering land that I have little experience in. It is new. I am very excited and ready for it.

The desert walk was a lot less grueling than expected. There was a cool wind blowing, sometimes quite hard, and the temperatures were quite low for a desert. Besides having to carry a little extra water, it was like all the rest of the trail so far.

June 9, 2004 – “3 miles North of Hwy 58 in the Tehachapi’s”

566.7 miles

Finished up in town this afternoon and got a ride from the motel we were staying at to the trail. I’m 3 miles into the Sierras! The Tehachapi’s are considered the tail end of the Southern Sierra Nevadas. The next few weeks will put me into the High Sierras and near Mt. Whitney, the highest point in the lower 48 states. I am very excited.

The People I am hiking with now are fun; we were just joking around and singing old songs from TV shows. The wind is blowing hard and it is cold out. This last section through the Mojave until now has been very windy. It is very frustrating when you are trying to hike against it in a deep sand. But at least it keeps it cool. There are several large wind farms again, collection this wind and creating energy. The trail went right up along side the huge windmills. They are really massive. The monotonous sound of them is lulling me to sleep.

June 10, 2004 – “Grassy flat 3 miles South of Hamp Williams Pass”

589.3 miles

Nice day today, a bit breezy, but sunny… I’m tired and am off to sleep.

June 13, 2004 “Joshua Tree Spring”

659.3 miles

I have been getting to bed too late the last few nights to write in here. Had a big day yesterday, but today I was slow and relatively lazy. I took a mid-afternoon nap and just sat for a while at a few points with beautiful views. Only a day and a half more until Kennedy Meadows.

June 14, 2004 – “Ridge off of Bear Mountain”

681.9 miles

Today felt really long and the miles were hard to come by. I think I need a zero mile day in Kennedy Meadows.

It’s amazing how quickly I can get caught up in the schedule, the miles, and all of the little planning issues involved in the walk. I think it is a tendency for most thru-hikers. If it was not an “X” amount of miles in a day then it was unsuccessful, “Now I am behind schedule.” And it is important to know how long it’s going to take to get here, and how many miles average I will cover there, etc. But in all of that there needs to be the adventure, the freedom to create each day, each moment into something worthwhile, something beautiful. If I find that I need to sit for a few hours, or even a few days meditating on a particular rock, I hope that I will have the foresight to seize that moment; Carpe Diem. So the miles and schedules are important, but only as a means to an end.

June 17, 2004 – “Kennedy Meadows”

697 miles

Took a zero day yesterday and am hoping to get out later this afternoon. Meadow Ed, a traveling Trail Angel, is here at the campground. Every year for his birthday, he comes out here and makes food for all the PCT hikers. It has been great. Several of these trail angels are institutions on the trail. They become a part of the journey for us hikers—participating in a tangible and intangible way.

The long distance hiking culture that is centered around the PCT is completely different in many ways than I expected. Even the range of differences in the people I have met on the trail so far has been wide ranging. The trail entices so many different types of people for a myriad of reasons.

June 17, 2004 (Part 2) – “Bridge over South Fork Kern River in Monache Meadows”

710.9 miles

I hiked out of Kennedy Meadows late this afternoon and found a wonderful camp overlooking Monache Meadows. At sunset I climbed up on a tall pile of boulders and watched the sky light up over the forested hills and the serpentine river. The best way to end my day.

June 18, 2004 – “Death Canyon Creek”

725 miles

I took it slow today, sleeping in and getting acclimatized to this elevation and resting up for a big climb tomorrow morning. I had a little incident either a chipmunk or a mouse. Somehow it got into my tent vestibule and nibbled away at a PowerBar. All I heard in the night was some plastic rustling, which I figured was just the wind shifting around my equipment. It must have been a pretty fearless animal because I was laying literally 1.5 feet away from the food bag.

I walked alongside of numerous meadows today. They were speckled with spring blossoms and intermittently lit with cloud-filtered sunlight. Beautiful.

June 19, 2004 – “Chicken Spring Lake”

744.4 miles

I’m camped high up by a lake surrounded by steep cliffs. I can tell that it is the weekend because there are a bunch of people camped out here. It is not crowded but I did have to search around a bit for a good campsite. Thankfully, it will be a Monday when I climb Mt. Whitney, so the fabled crowds on the summit should be abated. Today was spent walking by green meadows, over viewfull passes and saddles, as well as stepping over brooks and streams. After lunch, I took my pad out into a meadow and took an afternoon nap. I guess my shirt must have blown up or something like that because there is a ¼ inch strip of skin above my pant-line that is bright red. A small sun burnt stripe across my lower belly. Kind of funny. I took a huge amount of pictures today; I even got some self-described “weekend warriors” to take my picture. Hopefully some will come out good because if it ends up that I lugged around 4 pounds of photographic equipment for naught… My feet will never forgive me.

June 20, 2004 – “Crabtree Meadow”

760.5 miles

I camped out at the base of Mt. Whitney, met up with some other thru-hikers—Payphone, Ryan, François, Christy, and Jean. A couple of them summated Whitney today, and they said is was unbelievable… well worth it. I’m looking forward to getting up there.

The Sierras are great. A land of cliché only to those not here.

June 21, 2004 – “Up Mt. Whitney and back at Crabtree Meadow”

760.5 miles

Whitney was amazing. I got up past the tree-line and walked past several lakes with the sides of the mountain plunging into them. The climb switched back up an almost vertical face of rock and avalanche debris, then turned and did a long ridgeline traverse to the summit. The top of the contiguous United States. On the summit is the Smithsonian hut—a rock building from the early 1900’s constructed by the Smithsonian Institute and home of the United States’ highest toilet. It was flown in by helicopter and sits behind a screen of rocks. If only every bathroom in the world could have that view. Tomorrow I have another climb, this time with a full pack though. Forester Pass is the highest point on the PCT at around 13,000 feet. I am hoping that this weather will clear up. Today I hiked with Christy, a woman who I have been with off and on for a few weeks. She is an Ornithologist and is already finished with some post-doctoral work. Christy is from Texas/Fairbanks, Alaska.

I saw another group of thru-hikers coming down from Whitney. I was harshly reminded of my social awkwardness. In the group were two good looking girls around my age that I met in Agua Dulce—Christina and Cat. After chatting for a bit (or my poor attempts to) I left embarrassed and full of regret. It is a strange sort of feeling that I have experience time and again in my life. I used to just write it off as being shy, but recently I find that answer incomplete. I do not think I’m particularly shy, it is more of an intense self-conscientiousness… an embarrassment of Being.

Also, there is the perpetual inability to articulate and express myself verbally. It is the combination of two things; first, in my desire to use language precisely, I try not to use “fillers” like “umm” and “like;” Secondly, my mind often takes an exorbitant amount of time to translate itself into words and deliver them to my mouth. Those two things combined make for a lot of awkward silence that the others nor I know how to deal with, which creates frustration and embarrassment on my part, subsequently compounding the problem.

So where does that leave me? Trapped in the inarticulate cage of my mind? The most frustrating thing is that I know all of this about myself and can partially understand how I find myself in these situations, but there are more issues at work within me that I do not perceive, let alone comprehend. The idiosyncrasies of being me…

June 22, 2004 – “Upper Vidette Meadow”

781.5 miles

I made it over Forester Pass today. The trail up the South face is an amazing feat. From the base looking up, one cannot ever see how the trail gets up there. They did some fancy trail work. There was a sobering sight near the start of the switchbacks commemorating Donald Downs (he was a trail worker killed in that spot by an accident). I was reminded of the similar monument back at the start of the San Jacintos.

It rained a bit last night, but was clear this morning until 10 am when a storm started brewing. Luckily we made it over the pass before it hit. The North side was cloudy and windy, but there was no rain or snow. There was, however, numerous snow fields to be crossed that left my feet wet and cold. It feels good here in my tent and sleeping bag know that tomorrow afternoon I will be in town with a real bed and real food (lots of it). All of this hinges on being able to get a ride from Onion Valley trailhead (a 9-mile hike from the PCT) to Independence. With inclement weather, I am not sure how many people will be there. Hopefully everything will work out.

June 23, 2004 – “Independence”

784.4 miles

I made it down here to town this afternoon. It was a long hike over Kersarge Pass and down to the trailhead. We got a ride down the mountain by this woman and boy who just finished hiking with a family member who is thru-hiking the PCT.

June 25, 2004 – “Woods Creek”

795 miles

Got a ride from Independence up to the Onion Valley trailhead. Then up and over Kersarge pass again and on to Glen Pass. I am tired today; probably the full pack and the two hard climbs. I ate some fish that a fellow thru-hiker caught. Good eatin’. Good night.

June 26, 2004 – “Upper Basin South of Mather Pass”

809.6 miles

Today kind of sucked. I didn’t get as far as I would have liked, got rained on, and took a fall fording a stream. I’m feeling better now in my sleeping bag, and thankfully only my shoes and socks are still wet. Despite all these minor problems this area is unbelievably beautiful.

June 29, 2004 – “Bear Ridge”

866.7 miles

Had quite the visitor last night. At around 10 p.m. Christy in the tent next door yelled my name, as well as “BEAR!” I pull out my light and poke my head out to see a black bear tugging away at my Ursack (a fabric bear bag woven with kevlar and spectra, making it impossible for bears to rip open). It was tied to a tree and the bear was trying with all it’s might to get it off and eat my food. I shouted at it to leave my M&M’s alone and after a few more chews it ran off into the night. Surveying the damage, I noticed several puncture holes where he got his teeth and claws through the fabric, but no rips and all the food was in the bag. Unfortunately, he managed to also puncture every ziplock bag and my bottle of olive oil, so in the bag was an oil mass of powdered milk, cus-cus, and various other food items. Thankfully I was able to salvage enough food for today and tomorrow morning, which is all I need because I am only a few miles away from Vermillion Valley Resort.

July 4, 2004 – “Emerald Lake”

915.5 miles

Made it in and out of Vermillion Valley Resort. And a few days later, I find myself at Red’s Meadow. I ran into some other thru-hikers doing some Trail Magic. Greenbean and Wooly Mammoth are off the trail because of foot injuries, but they came up to Red’s Meadow, set up at the camp ground and are now making meals and giving rides in their rental car. Very appreciated. Because of timing with the post office in Tuolumne Meadows, I had a day to kill so I took a zero day in Mammoth Lakes – a great town.

I am back on the trail today and will be at Tuolumne Meadows tomorrow.

July 6, 2004 – “Glen Aulin”

942.8 miles

Finally made it out of Toulomy Meadows today. They had a scheduled power blackout so I couldn't get my packages mailed out until late afternoon. And by then it was raining.

July 7, 2004 – “Smedberg Lake”

963 miles

This is the first time I have camped solo for quite some time. It gives a completely different feet to the trail. A bit reminiscent of my experience in Southern California.

July 9, 2004 – “Kennedy Canyon Creek”

1002 miles

These last few days out of Toulomy Meadows have been kicking my *!%@. The trail has been plunging as much as 2,000 feet to the bottom of a canyon then ascending to the other side via a pass or gap. Gain 2,000 lose 2,000 has been the leg-killing pattern.

I came across an odd scene the other day. I was up on the hillside doing some "paper work" and as I cam back down, I spotted a small pile of camping equipment. I investigated and found a few rags that were probably a tent, a broken Swiss army knife, and the parts to a disposable camera. The roll of film was relatively intact so I picked it up. I am very curious to see what is on the roll and if it gives any clues to the pile left on the mountain.

Past the 1,000 mile mark late today. Man that's a long way! Only 1,600 more to go. I'm almost through the Sierra and have already seen the landscape change from granite to a darker volcanic rock. Also, sadly, tomorrow will be the last time above 10,000 feet. The rest of the trail stays below that into Canada. I guess I will have to put my high altitude cravings on hold for awhile. Who knows, I have always wanted to climb Rainier. Maybe that's one of the things next for me.

July 10, 2004 – “On the Crest above East Fork Carson River”

1024.5 miles

I met a bunch of bikers from Reno on Sonora Pass today. There was a big crew of them that rode up on their motorcycles just as I was crossing the road. They parked and asked me all the usual questions. They all wanted to get a picture of me making comments like, "this is the closest you will be to a tough guy" and the like. It was fun. I mentioned that I was from Olympia and one of the guys said he know the owner of the Olympian (the local newspaper). He asked and I gave him my name, website, and phone number. Who knows? Maybe I'll be in the paper because of a random meeting on a small pass in Northern California. Strange coincidences.

I usually don't know without looking at my watch what day of the week it is. But I figured it must be the weekend with the amount of day hikers I saw on the trail. I was right; it's Saturday.

July 11, 2004 – “Sherrold Lake”

1045.4 miles

I'm tired today. I tried to take a nap at lunch time but the ants and flying insects would not let me. Try to get me now in my tent little buggers!

July 12, 2004 – “Lost Lakes”

1066.7 miles

today felt like it would never end. These last few days have been hard mentally. I find when I sit down to rest it takes a lot for me to get back up. I think I may go into South Lake Tahoe tomorrow and take an unplanned zero day. I will have to see how things look once I get closer.

I ran into two guys and a girl here at the lake I'm camped at. They gave me some jerky and took my trash (always a cool thing). They seemed to be interested in doing a through-hike of their own and the coincidence of meeting me excited that desire.

The wild flowers have been out in full force these last few weeks. The reds, blues, purples, yellow, white, etc. burst around me as I walk through the middle of huge fields. The variety in the flower shape always is mind boggling. some are simple three petaled while others are complex with multiple petals and flowers in clusters. Still others seem to be almost colored leaves at the top of a stem.

The landscape has changed significantly also. We are firmly in "Volcans Relm." There are still a few outcroppings of granite but most of the rock is a red/black hue. The topography has also seemed to level out. Not so dramatic valleys and mountains. The new scene gives a definite feeling that I'm getting some where--Forward movement to Canada

July 14, 2004 – “South Lake Tahoe”

1089.4 miles

I made it to Echo Lake yesterday late afternoon, and as luck would have it, there was a hotel owner there to pick up another hiker. So I decided to go ahead and take a zero day. A really good group of hikers are here and it has been really good to hang out with them. I missed that camaraderie and the conversations this last section that I hiked along.

I just finished talking to an elderly gentleman named J.J. It was a wonderful re-awakening of deep longings and forgotten urges. Can't put it into adequate words so I won't try.

But, oh, this life is so beautifully complex and variegated. How can I expect to ever live in it all?

Finished reading Pilgrim at Tinker Creek by Annie Dillard a few days ago. A wonderful book--a meditation of life, nature, God, and paradox. So many half thoughts flooding me--put them together and I still come up short.

July 16, 2004 – “Susie Lake”

1,098.7 miles

Just did a short day out of South Lake Tahoe. A great place for a few days rest. I have a feeling the trail is going to be busy this weekend. Already there have been a grip of backpackers. The guidebook says that the Desolation wilderness is the most visited wilderness area in the U.S. It is a beautiful, although buggy area.

July 19, 2004 – “A knoll above Paradise Valley”

1,162.5 miles

I have been hiking with a group since South Lake Tahoe: Kat, Tadpole, and Dr. Stroganoff Haselhof (Strogs for short.) It is a really fun group.

I finally have a trail name. I am now Meat Pants. I was camped with Right On and Blue Moon when it was given to me. I was telling the story about my first night out of Echo Lake… I had brought a steak to have for dinner, so I built a little fire (only to find out the next day that it was an illegal fire) and cooked my meat over the hot coals. It came out really nice and juicy. Unfortunately, all the bloody juice found its way onto my pants. (Basically making me walking bear bait.) Luckily I was out of the bad bear areas. But after telling that story the name Meat Pants came out and stuck. (Just “Meats” for short.)

I had quite the adventure today. We took a wrong turn down this trail not realizing it until we were 15-20 minutes down. Looking at the map we saw where we were and that the trail we were on was headed towards the road we would hit on the PCT anyway. But the trail went off the map and we were not completely sure where it went. To avoid the climb back up to the PCT we headed down what we discovered later was called “Lost Trail.” After a lot of hiking we hit a dirt road and got a ride out to the highways where we learned we had ended up in Truckee. So all in all we got a hot lunch and only a few more miles than expected. Plus an adventure.

July 21, 2004 – “Ridge South of Sierra Buttes”

1,194.9 miles

We made it into Sierra City last night after a 30+ mile day. After re-supplying today we got up to a ridge a few miles from town. Man… There is a mouse. Dirty little rodents that chew everything. Got to go deal with it.

July 24, 2004 – “Buck’s Summit”

1,264.1 miles

Got to bed late the last few nights. It has been great hiking with these guys. We are always laughing and joking around. It makes the day go by a lot faster than if I was by myself. Tomorrow we will be rolling into Belden for a re-supply. There is a trail angel there that we are going to stay with. Almost to the half way point on the trail. The second half will go by quicker and be a bit easier. I’m looking forward to getting out of California.

August 3, 2004 – “Tate Creek”

1,451.7 miles

It has been a while since I have written in here. I’ve been getting to bed too late to write. Only 2 days out of Castle Crags where my dad is coming down for the weekend. I’m looking forward to seeing him and being able to hang out and take a break. I am also looking forward to In-N-Out. Mmmmmmm. We have been seeing Mt. Shasta for the last few days and we are skirting west around the south side of it now. Burny Falls was also really beautiful. It is a huge falls with a lot of water coming directly out of the porous volcanic rock. Definitely the most impressive falls on the trail so far.

August 8, 2004 – “Creek West of Castle Crags”

1,514.4 miles

I got back on the trail today after spending the weekend with my dad. He drove down from Olympia and was able to drive me around to pick up some new shoes and other miscellaneous supplies. It was great to be able to see him and hang out with a familiar face. With a heavy pack fully loaded with food, a hot waterless day, and a big climb ahead, I left my dad with a stomach full of seafood and buffets.

August 9, 2004 – “Upper Deadfall Lake”

1,536.1 miles

Today I was thinking back to when I started on this trail 101 days ago. Driving up to the trailhead at Campo is a distant memory. I remember those first few weeks being hellish, both mentally and physically. A part of me cannot believe that I have made it this far, but another part knew that there is not an option to quit. Coming up o the home stretch; unbelievable.

August 10, 2004 – “Highway 3 at Scott Mountain Summit”

1,560.1 miles

I’m camped out in the campground here by the highway with Pathfinder, the first thru-hiker I have seen since Castle Crags. I have been tired these last few days. I tried to take a nap this afternoon, but the ants and their biting would have none of that. Hopefully they will leave me be tonight.

August 11, 2004 - “West of Carter Meadows Summit”

1,581.1 miles

I don’t know what to write except that I wish I could figure this life out.

August 12, 2004 – “A Saddle Above Etna Summit”

1,601.7 miles

My feet have been hurting me since Castle Crags. It must be the new shoes I got there, but they are exactly the same ones that got me from Jonathan’s to Belden – 900+ miles. Maybe they just need more time to break in.

There has been so much on my mind as of late. What am I going to do when I’m finished? Where am I going to live? How will I live? The list can go on and on. I have also been thinking about my generation and my place in it and my future mate. No conclusions on any of these but I have just been spending my days hiking and pondering on such things.

August 13, 2004 – “Shadow Lake”

1,621.3 miles

I have been walking through the Marble Mountain Wilderness today and it is a very nice wilderness. The trail passed a few lakes and I was able to get a swim, which was especially nice on such a hot day.

Climbing to a ridge after lunch I heard a helicopter that sounded pretty close. Looking down into the valley, I saw that it was a fire-fighting helicopter getting water from a Campbell Lake to throw onto a fire less than a mile way. Thankfully all of this was down deep in the valley with no real danger to me or the PCT. As I watched, I noticed there was what I assumed to be a spotter plane flying a continuous pattern over the fire. It was an interesting diversion to watch…

August 14, 2004 – “Grider Creek”

1,645 miles

Just about 12 miles out of Seiad Valley; a longish morning’s walk and I should be there before lunch. I saw more bears today than I have seen so far on the trip – about 7. I came across the first one as he was sitting behind a tree right next to the trail. He looked like a juvenile. Settling down for lunch a half-hour or so later, I spotted a mother and her cub on the grassy hillside eating the berries that were abundant there. They wandered around me all lunch, still keeping their distance, but apparently unfazed by my presence. After lunch I came across another sow with 2 cubs that all bolted after I made a sound at them. And the last one I saw in high brush, rustling around above the trail. I shouted. He gave a start, then burst out of the shrubbery, ran across the trail, and went careening down the hill. There was a bush that grew all over the ridge I walked along today with big, red berries. Maybe that is what attracted all the bears in the area.

August 15, 2004 – “Fern Spring”

1,658.7 miles

Got into the Seiad Valley this morning and left to do a few more miles in the evening. To get into the valley the PCT does a six mile road walk (part of it is even on a highway with little or no shoulder). The trail is forced to this route because it needs to cross the expansive Klamath River and a hiker/equestrian bridge to cross it would be too expensive. About 2 miles into the road walk, I was offered a ride that I took into Seiad Valley. There are those who will scoff and scorn my lack of PCT thru-hiker purity, but I tell them: Each of us has to hike our own hike (as it is said out here). Those few miles that I rode will not expand my journey any if I would have walked them instead. I would have walked them out of pure rote. In fact let it be said that I did not truly walk the entire PCT. Therefore my pride and arrogant sense of accomplishment will be removed and I will be able to focus more clearly on what this individual journey really is for me. The PCT is merely a tool; a means to an end, not an end in itself.

August 17, 2004 – “Red Mountain”

1,701.4

Finally in Oregon and done with California! I have hiked the length of California through some of the most rugged and beautiful mountain ranges in the world. Unbelievable. Tomorrow it is into Ashland to re-supply, then off again. Man I really need a shower and fresh laundry… my current state is bad, even for my standards.

August 20, 2004 – “Spring Near Pilot Rock”

1,731.1 miles

Stayed at the youth hostel in Ashland for a zero day yesterday, but I’m back on the trail now. This morning trying to hitch to the PCT, I went out onto I-5, where it’s legal to hitch-hike in Oregon. I tried for almost an hour before I got a ride. It was frustrating. Getting onto the trail later than expected, I was only able to do about 10 miles… much less than I was hoping for.

I saw some other hikers in town and we all hung out for dinner and breakfast today. Quasimoto, Blue Moon, Right On, Green Bean, and Woolly Mammoth were all there. It was nice to be with some fellow thru-hikers after going solo for awhile.

I have been reading Dostoevsky’s The Brothers Karamazov since Castle Crags. It is an amazing book. I have always been inclined towards the Russian authors, this merely affirms that interest. I have been devouring it each night, staying up much later than I should. But I must, and it’s worth it. I have to laugh at myself, though, because I’m carrying a quite heavy, over 700 page book on a thru-hike of the PCT. I guess I’m just crazy like that.

August 23, 2004 – “Honeymoon Creek”

1,805 miles

Well, I guess I’m in the Northwest now. Early yesterday morning it started to rain. It continued all day yesterday and today. And unfortunately it is still overcast tonight. My luck finally caught up with me; after all it had been 113 days of practically no rain to speak of. Hopefully it will clear up soon. I need to dry out all my stuff! Hiking in the rain is not too bad if you have a place at the end of the day to dry off and get warm. It really sucks when you know all you have is a damp tent and a damp sleeping bag to keep up until morning… then you’ll have to start hiking in the rain again. Oh joy!

August 27, 2004 – “Diamond View Lake”

1,894 miles

It finally stopped raining yesterday evening. Five days of rain to just remind me to be ready for Washington. Not only has it been wet, but the temperature went down quite a bit, making for a very cold night, especially for August. The sun came out this morning and by the afternoon I was able to lay everything out and dry up. It was a great feeling getting into camp tonight and putting up a dry tent, crawling into a dry sleeping bag, and all the while being able to see the moon. One big disappointment that came with the rain was that Crater Lake was fogged over, so I never got a chance to see it. I will definitely go back to check it out on a clear day.

August 29, 2004 – “A Lake Near Cougar Flat”

1,938 miles

Made it in and out of Shelter Cove for a re-supply yesterday and did a full day today. I got a chance to watch some of the Olympics on a big screen at a ski lodge near the trail. I hung out there with Reverend Gizmo (the Agnostic), Karly, Chance, Skirt, Rot, and two hikers that did the PCT last year – Beltcher and Navagator. It was a fun day of hanging out and eating.

It’s hard to believe that I’m over half way through Oregon. The last half of this hike has flown by. The camaraderie has been a great part of the trail. Getting a chance to meet all the people that have ended up on the trail is definitely a highlight. It is like a little family of slightly crazy people who spend their days walking.

August 30, 2004 – “North Fork Mesa Creek”

1,963.4 miles

I finally got to see the Sisters today even though we have been in the Three Sisters Wilderness for the last 2 days. Beautiful Mountains and glaciers were flowing off of them. I camped out in a meadow with Skirt and Rot. I’m hoping to be able to catch a quick hitch in and out of the town of Sisters for a re-supply.

September 1, 2004 – “Bend”

1,984.2 miles

Yesterday, after hearing about some rain that is forecasted for today and tomorrow, I decided to join Karly, Gizmo, and Chance who were going to Amber’s house in Bend. Amber is Karly’s hiking partner who has been out with a bad flu-like sickness. It will be a good place to take a zero day and hopefully have this rain blow over. Only about 7 more days in Oregon left! This trip is nearing the end.

The thought of being off the trail is both frightening and exhilarating. There is so much that I have to think about immediately off the trail: job, where to live, future direction, etc. etc. etc. Yet I still have one of the hardest parts of the PCT ahead – Washington and the North Cascades. Life is so variegated.

Oh but to live! What a rush, being out of the suburban sprawl that can easily be mistaken for all of the United States. In reality it is a small percentage of our land. Looking down from the mountaintop, so to speak, the cities – the center of our society – are just specks in a vast landscape. Yet we reach so far around us – mining, logging, etc. All things necessary for how we live today and even necessary for thru-hiking. I think this is something that can be easily forgotten or overlooked. The industrial and commercial monolith allows us to take time away from it to hike for five months. It is a strange paradox of the contemporary world.

But enough philosophical mumblings. It has been great here at Ambers. Road Rash has also been hanging out with us here. I first met her at Shelter Cove, but because of various ailments that hit her repeatedly, she is not hiking anymore. She is a really cool gal.

Back to the trail tomorrow. Onward to Canada!

September 3, 2004 - “Hunt’s Creek”

2,026.7 miles

Already September and past 2,000 miles. 600 more to go. Yesterday was a bit rainy and cool, but luckily Karlie’s parents were able to slack us 18 miles. (Slack packing is when you hike without your pack and meet up with it at some access point where a designated person(s) bring it to you.) Today was mostly dry and we even had a bit of sun; looks like it is going to be totally clear tomorrow.

I had a little adventure today. We are hiking an alternate route that follows the old Oregon Skyline Trail (OST). It’s not described as well as the PCT in the guide books and because of that there were some trail mishaps today. First, Chance was ahead after lunch and took a wrong turn at a junction that was off the map. We knew this because he left an arrow pointing in the direction that he went. We left him a note and headed off in the correct direction. A few hours later, Amber was ahead and left her arrow pointing to the erroneous path that she had taken. We knew she was close so I was sent as a runner to catch up with her. After running for a bit, I finally found her and as we arrived back at the junction. Chance showed up right after us and explained his ordeal with taking the wrong trail earlier. When I saw the second arrow pointing off in the wrong direction I could not help but laugh. Twice in one day. What are the chances of that?

September 5, 2004 – “Oak Grove Fork Clackamas River”

2,078 miles

I am looking forward to tomorrow. I plan to spend tomorrow night in a shelter on the side of Mt. Hood. Then it will be only two more days until Washington. I’m going to shoot for the first weekend in October (the 2nd or 3rd) for arriving at Manning park – the end of the PCT.

September, 7, 2004 – “Ridge near Buck Peak”

2,127.9 miles

Tomorrow I will (hopefully) be down in Cascade Locks, a city on the Oregon side of the Columbia River. Today was spent mostly walking around Mt. Hood. It supplies great views, a refreshing change from the usual Oregon Forest (which I am back into now). I’m looking forward to tomorrows walk. I’m going to take the highly recommended Eagle Creek Trail down to the gorge. It leads you along the deep cleft cut by the creek and past numerous waterfalls.

I got a chance to talk to my friend Jon Jones who lives in Portland, not to far from Cascade Locks. I was planning to meet him the day after tomorrow, but seeing as I’m ahead of schedule, I might try and see if I can take a zero instead. Hopefully, I will be able to get in contact with him to pitch the new plan.

September 10, 2004 – “Panther Creek”

2,186.3 miles

Jon Jones came and picked me up at Cascade Locks the evening that I got in. I spend a zero day yesterday hanging out and re-supplying at his house in Portland. It was really good to see him and catch up.

I crossed over the Columbia River via the “Bridge of the Gods” into Washington today. I’m looking forward to meeting my family when I am hiking through. I am very much looking forward to finishing the PCT. It has been a great experience; I have journeyed the mountains of the West; I have learned more of who I am, have accepted it, and am much more comfortable with myself. But I’m getting tired of hiking and being away from friends and family. I think this Walk is going to end at the perfect time.

September 11, 2004 – “Blue Lake”

2,209.2 miles

Appropriately, my first night in Washington it rained all night. Today was overcast, a bit windy, and cool. Thankfully the rain stopped in the morning so the only thing wet is my tent. I met a fellow thru-hiker yesterday where I was camped. He is Zig-Zag from Florida. And tonight I caught up with Achilles and Saps, who I have been leap-frogging since the High Sierras.

Talking to Jon in Portland, I realized something about this trip. He asked me what I have learned about myself. While there have been a few things, there is not one particular characteristic or trait that sticks out. But thinking along those lines, I realized that I have grown much more comfortable with who I am. Jon noticed that indeed I was more at ease and relaxed. It’s sort of like I just accepted who I am. Somehow, somewhere, in my growing up I acquired this shame. It was unconscious and below the surface, but it permeated all that I did. It was hard to be honest with myself about myself because that would bring up more things to be ashamed of. It’s a strange, wonderful, and freeing feeling to recognize this and become conscious of it. Quite a lot of my life has been colored by this inability to truly accept who I am. How much insecurity and bouts of depression have I suffered unnecessarily?

September 12, 2004 – “Swampy Creek”

2,234.3 miles

No rain last night but late today it started to sprinkle on and off. It looks like it may clear out tonight as forecasted, but you know how that goes. I’m hoping at least part of the day is clear tomorrow because I will be walking around Mt. Adams and will have views of the Goat Rocks and Rainier.

September 13, 2004 – “A Pond Near Midway Creek”

2,258.6 miles

Well it started to rain last night and still has not let up. Miserable walking.

September 14, 2004 – “Side of Old Snowy Mountain”

2,279.9 miles

I was expecting a shelter here, but alas it is only a pile of rocks. I wanted to get a lot further today but I was stopped by the storm. As I climbed higher it started to snow and the fog moved in. I didn’t want to risk crossing Packwood Glacier in near whiteout conditions, so I’m camped up here in the snow about 1/4 mile away. It is still snowing now, I hope it abates soon because I still have some tricky trail ahead of me. I think it’s better that I’m waiting until tomorrow – fresh legs, well rested, and hopefully better conditions. On to White Pass in the morning.

September 16, 2004 – “Two Lakes”

2,318.5 miles

I made it out of the Goat Rocks alive and well. I experienced the most uncomfortable night and worst day of hiking yesterday - snow, fog, and the strongest wind I have ever experienced. But I made it down to White Pass that evening, a wet, cold, and very tired hiker. I met my mom and Doug there. It was very good to see them. I was able to dry out all my stuff, and get a good night’s sleep. The rain is still coming down with no sign of stopping. I also caught up with Kat, Strogs, and Tadpole at White Pass. It has been since Castle Crags in California since I’ve seen all of them. It’s good to be hiking with people in this weather.

September 22, 2004 – “Olympia, WA”

2,350.3 miles

Well, that’s the end of my hike for this year. The day after leaving White Pass I started feeling sick. It was hard to eat anything and I just felt really tired. Saturday the 18th I knew that I was going to meet my dad Sunday, but I hope to be able to make it to a road and get a hold of him to see if he could pick me up. The 5 mile walk to the Urich shelter at Government Meadows were the hardest miles yet. I had not been able to eat much, so I was weak… Whenever I stood up I felt even worse.

Walking out, still in the rain and snow, I was finally able to stop. I guess it has been mostly arrogance pushing me this last month – pride wanting to be able to say that I thru-hiked the PCT in one year. I stopped enjoying it weeks ago, yet I just wanted to finish, to push myself no matter what. I pushed too hard and my body finally got hit. When the pride came down, I knew that I was finished walking. I’ll do the rest when I and the weather it better. I am glad that I am okay with stopping this year, short of my goal. But like I have been saying, the PCT is a means to and end.

Thru-hiking is not for me. I think fundamentally it is against my character. All I did was walk and walk, squeezing in other things only at those rare spare moments. It’s not even the time, but rather the consistent speed that it has to be done at. There is no time to just stay at a spot that spoke to me. It is almost too fast of a pace to have the quiet moments of true contemplation and thought. A lesson to remind me to take is slow and intentionally, whether in nature or in the populated world.

So many thoughts… so much that is rushing around. But I close this journal with one last thought. The journey does not end here. It did not start at Campo down at the southern terminus. Life is a continuous journey, this is just one season that I have been able to spend out of the norm and in the wilderness.